View from the top of the Belfort in Bruges

A mini tour of Belgium (and a quick stop in London)

We went on our annual European city break for 2018 last month, hopping on the train from London to Brussels and then Bruges. Belgium’s not a particularly obvious choice for a holiday, but it sped to the top of my list following recommendations from friends who’d been to Brussels and/or Bruges and loved it.

The journey is amazingly quick from London – it’s just 2 hours to Brussels by Eurostar, the same length of time it took for us to travel by rail from Manchester to London. We did the whole journey from home in one day on the way out, but stopped off in London for a night to break it up on the way home.

Brussels

Musical Instruments Museum, Brussels
Musical Instruments Museum, Brussels

Brussels was pretty much as I expected, although I was startled by the loveliness of the Grand Place, which is the main square and the home of some particularly striking old buildings. There are some nice little streets leading off the square, although these quickly turn into more modern shopping streets.

We did a bit of sightseeing while (of course) sampling the local chocolate and beer. We visited the excellent Musical Instruments Museum and took in some amazing views from the top floor restaurant.

Jewel-encrusted harmonium
Bling at the Musical Instruments Museum

We visited the European parliament to wave goodbye (sob) and ventured out of the city centre to marvel at the Atomium (it is absolutely massive!).

European Parliament building, Brussels
European Parliament building, Brussels
Atomium, Brussels
Atomium, Brussels

Food-wise, we did really well! Our lovely B&B was located around the corner from an Italian restaurant called Pasta Divina, where we were welcomed by the owner who was clearly very proud of his Italian wife’s culinary abilities in the kitchen – the restaurant serves up lots of different flavoured pastas and sauces to go with them, so you can mix and match as you please. It was excellent!

Speculoos and banana waffle
Speculoos and banana waffle

We decided on pizza for our second night in Brussels and headed to a small place called Mirante, which does very good (and very good value!) wood-fired pizzas. Unfortunately, we didn’t have any frites while we were in Belgium, as they’re traditionally fried in animal fat. I suspect it’s not quite the same to have them fried in vegetable oil!

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Little Delirium Cafe, Brussels

Of course, you can’t go to Belgium and not try the beer. The first beers we had were Jupiler lagers, which had been recommended by a friend and are, helpfully, available absolutely everywhere in Belgium and cheap to boot. We also sampled beers in Little Delirium Cafe and The Sister, which specialises in organic beer.

Ice cream from Neuhaus
My posh Magnum from Neuhaus!

Other culinary highlights were an amazing ‘build your own’ ice cream from posh chocolatier Neuhaus (I went with vanilla ice cream, milk chocolate and cacao nibs), a late-evening speculoos and banana waffle, some fancy biscuits from Maison Dandoy and a rather decadent box of hand-picked chocolates from Godiva, which we bought for the train journey to Bruges.

Godiva chocolates
Train snacks

I also managed to buy a book from a great English language bookshop called Sterling Books, where a member of staff recommended a book by a Belgian writer, Dimitri Verhulst.

Bruges

Canal in Bruges

Oh, Bruges. How pretty you are! Everyone knows that Bruges is a picturesque place to visit, but you don’t realise just how beautiful it is until you’re actually wandering its streets with your mouth slightly agape at the lovely old houses, the rambling little streets and the quiet canals.

Basilica of the Holy Blood, in the Burg
Basilica of the Holy Blood, in the Burg

We did the usual touristy things, including going up all 366 steps of the Belfort, having a beer at the Duvelorium while looking over the Markt, gawping at the old buildings in the Burg, going on a boat tour down the canals, and having the best hot chocolate (with cake and chocolates, of course) at De Proeverie.

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Hot chocolate and cake at De Proeverie

We also went on a long but lovely walk through the Minnewaterpark and around the outskirts of the centre along the canal, stopping to look at windmills and the old city gates.

Tower, Bruges

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One of the old city gates in Bruges
Bruges bench with dragon supports
Even the benches are striking in Bruges

We continued our beer sampling with trips to Cafe Vlissinghe, the oldest tavern in Bruges (complete with an adorable pub dog!), and ‘t Brugs Beertje, which has the biggest beer menu I’ve ever seen!

Vlissinghe sign

Our evening meals in Bruges were slightly disappointing – we had an average and overpriced curry one night and I had a very average and overpriced stew at a Greek restaurant the next night, which I suppose is to be expected when you eat in the most touristy bit of Bruges. But we did come across a great lunch spot in the form of t’Brugs Pitahuis, which serves falafel and also some Indian dishes that we didn’t try.

Belgian Wit beer
Hilarious

I did really enjoy Bruges, though, and would absolutely recommend it if you’d like a short break in a pretty, historic town!

Also, can I just brag about how lovely the weather was for September?! It was cold and rainy when we left Manchester, then we arrived to find Belgium basking in 25C heat, which only conveniently broke to let in the rain on the day we left!

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Beers at the Duvelorium

London

We only had one night in London on the way home, but we still managed to do a fair bit. I’ve been to London a few times, mainly when I was in my old job and had to visit our HQ, but I’ve never really been much of a tourist there before.

This time, I was determined to go to two places I’ve wanted to see for a while. We spent an afternoon in the National Portrait Gallery and covered quite a lot of it while we were there. There were some really interesting paintings and I learned some great facts about figures I knew of, and some that I didn’t. But I have to say it became slightly samey after a while – there are only so many portraits of dead white men that I can take before my eyes start to glaze over.

The most intriguing exhibits were definitely the paintings of interesting women and also black/Asian figures from British history who you don’t really hear about. I was quite thrilled to finally see *that* sketch of Jane Austen by her sister and a painting of Emily BrontĂ« by Branwell with my own eyes! There was also a great little exhibition on the theme of friendship that I really enjoyed.

We also went to the British Library just before we got on the train back to Manchester, where we explored the excellent Treasures exhibition (and I got all star-struck over the Austen and BrontĂ« exhibits… if you can get star-struck by a writing desk and some little books?!). I also went wild in the gift shop, but restrained myself in the bookshop. There were just too many books that I wanted.

Other highlights of London were visiting Daunt Books in Marylebone for the first time and finally getting some decent Indian food at Rasa W1, which we’ve been to before and is still brilliant for delicious south Indian dishes.

Giant masala dosa at Rasa W1
Man vs masala dosa at Rasa W1

All in all, it was an excellent few days away! I did start searching for ideas for our next trip away pretty much the moment we got home, though. Sometimes looking forward to your next holiday is just as exciting as actually going away!

Eating and drinking in Lisbon

T’husband and I went to Lisbon for a few nights towards the end of 2016 and absolutely LOVED it. The other day, I sent a list of our food and drink highlights to a colleague, and realised I’d sent the same list to two other friends previously.

So, I thought I’d better immortalise my recommendations in a blog post rather than root around in my emails every time someone I know says they’re planning to visit Lisbon!

Below is a brief list of the best places we went to. Bear in mind that we don’t meat, so this is all veggie-friendly, but you definitely won’t be stuck for options if you’re a carnivore and (especially) if you love seafood.

  • Queijaria Cheese Shop and Bar – We went here for amazing fondue and wine on our first night. It was SO good. The waitress remarked that she’d never seen the bottom of the fondue dish before when she came to take our dishes away…

fondue

  • Jardim dos Sentidos – Really good veggie restaurant that does a wide range of cuisines. It’s got an outdoor bit if the weather’s nice!
  • Pharmacia – This is a quirky tapas restaurant based around a ‘pharmacy’ theme. It does some great Portuguese food and there’s lots of non-meat options. It’s slightly on the pricey side but good for a special meal. Pre-booking is recommended (I think I just emailed them).
  • LisBeer – This is a great bar that does loads of craft beer. The beer list is massive and it’s all underground (but I think there’s an outdoor bit too), so it has a nice cosy vibe.
  • Duque Brewpub – Quite a small pub but with some good ale/craft beer options.

beerduque

  • Time Out Market – This is an indoor market with two areas, one for selling fruit, veg etc and another with loads of food and drink stalls. The food and drink bit is great for either lunch or the evenings.
  • Pasteis de Belem – It’s worth getting a tram out to Belem to visit this bakery – it’s the oldest maker of Portuguese custard tarts and they’re so delicious! There’s usually a massive queue for takeaway but you can go in and sit down to order tarts and coffee and lunch without joining the outdoor queue. We also went to look at the tower in Belem and generally just wander around. It’s a nice area.

There’s also a Museum of Beer that we didn’t get to.

We definitely want to visit again, so I’d love to get some more tips if you have them!

Furnace stage

Liverpool International Festival of Psychedelia 2017

We’ve been going to the Liverpool International Festival of Psychedelia religiously for a few years now. Also known as Liverpool Psych Fest, the event is a two-day extravaganza of live music showcasing the best of modern psychedelic music, which in reality covers a wide range of genres from shoegaze and drone to electronic and experimental music (although there’s usually at least one band and a fair few festival-goers’ outfits drawing directly on proper 1960s psychedelia!).

Unknown band

Furnace screens

I love this festival because it really is all about the music. Taking place across four stages of varying sizes at the excellent Camp and Furnace venue in the Baltic Triangle, the festival puts on performances from around 100 bands and artists in total.

Jane Weaver
Jane Weaver
The Telescopes
The Telescopes

You have to be really committed to see everything; the doors open at 3pm on the Friday and 1pm on the Saturday, and the live performances go on into the early hours of the morning, after which there are DJ sets and afterparties! We did well to make it to around midnight on both days this year, I think!

Blade Factory stage entrance
Blade Factory stage entrance
A Place To Bury Strangers
A Place To Bury Strangers

There were only three acts on the programme this year that we knew we definitely wanted to see – The Telescopes (intense), Jane Weaver (brilliant) and A Place To Bury Strangers (very, very loud) – so we were free to wander from stage to stage to see what else took our fancy the rest of the time.

Ex Easter Island Head
Ex Easter Island Head

We saw quite a lot of acts this way; I particularly enjoyed Baltic Fleet (excellent electronic grooves), Loop (noise old hands), Ex-Easter Island Head (a collective based in Salford who used a lot of guitar tables and some bells), Yassassin (indie pop), Is Bliss (good solid shoegaze) and probably a few other bands who I’ve forgotten (I should have taken detailed notes…).

Is Bliss
Is Bliss
Cosmonauts
Cosmonauts

Away from the stages, there was a space upstairs for a record stall, cinema and psychedelic art installations. We came up here a few times just to sit down and rest our weary feet!

PZYK cinema
PZYK cinema

We tried out the ‘Dreamachine’, which was a spinning cylinder with holes cut into it set around a bright light and on a spinning turntable. You’re supposed to sit in front of it with your eyes closed. It was a bit weird.

Dreamachine
Dreamachine

The biggest non-live music highlight had to be sitting down and having a chat with none other than snooker legend Steve Davis! My husband originally wanted to just have his photo taken with him, but Steve was having a chat with someone called Dave Newton (who we later discovered headed up a singles-only label called Shifty Disco and used to manage Ride) about the music industry and record buying trends, and invited us to sit down and join in. It was so interesting and very cool! Steve is a bit of a Liverpool Psych Fest regular – we saw him ‘in conversation’ at a previous festival and he did a DJ set this year. His music knowledge is *very* impressive.

(We didn’t get that picture in the end, though. While we were sat down about 3 other people asked to have their photo taken with Steve, so the right moment never came up!).

Kaleidoscopes

There were bars everywhere, although the prices were quite steep (but not out of the ordinary for a music festival). The festival is committed to serving beer from lesser known breweries, but we just stuck to the house pilsner as it was relatively cheap and quite nice!

PZYK cocktail bar
PZYK cocktail bar

(Also, another anecdote: we were walking back to the hotel on the Friday night when a driver in a passing car shouted ‘Hippies!’ at us in a somewhat derogatory manner, probably because I had a paisley pattern on my face and my husband was wearing flares. I wonder how many other festival-goers in even crazier psychedelic gear had a similar experience? I found it hilarious, anyway!)

Hippy

PZYK lager

Food-wise, we ate some excellent wood-fired pizza and some rather average burritos and nachos. We have a tradition of going to Indian street food restaurant Mowgli on Bold Street for our Saturday pre-festival breakfast/lunch, and we kept that up this year.

Pizza

Outside

Another psych fest tradition for us is a trip to the excellent News From Nowhere bookshop on Bold Street on the Sunday morning. We always manage it even when exceedingly hungover! I did, of course, buy a few books.

Bold Street
Bold Street
News From Nowhere bookshop
News From Nowhere bookshop

Books what I bought

All in all, we had another brilliant time at Liverpool Psych Fest, and I can’t wait to do it all over again next year! If you fancy a music festival with a difference (and don’t much like camping, like me!), then look out for early bird tickets coming on sale towards the end of this year/start of next year.

PZYK bag

PZYK bear

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View of Prague from Petřín Tower

A short break in Prague

I spent a few days in Prague with my husband earlier this week. We tend to favour city breaks over beach holidays, and historic Prague really is a wonderful destination for a few days of sightseeing, eating and, of course, drinking!

What we saw

We wanted to keep things quite laid back and not have to follow a rigid sightseeing itinerary, but there were a few things I knew I definitely wanted to see and do. We spent our first morning exploring Petřín Hill, which lies just to the west of the city centre and north of where we stayed. This area is the largest green space in Prague and offers amazing views of the city.

We took the funicular train up to the top and, after some um-ing and ah-ing, decided to climb Petřín Tower to get some really good views of Prague. Note: neither of us are great with heights! It was slightly terrifying climbing up the spiral staircase, but we eventually made it to the top and were rewarded with our first proper sight of Prague in daylight (as we’d arrived the night before).

After we recovered from the climb, we wandered around the beautiful gardens on the hill and made our way to the most popular attraction in Prague, the Charles Bridge. This is a pedestrian bridge over the Vltava River that connects the castle district on the west bank with the city centre proper on the east bank, and is lined with a series of rather gothic-looking statues. It was incredibly busy, but worth the jostling to see the statues.

Architecture in Prague

The rest of the day was spent walking around and staring upwards. All of the architecture in Prague is gorgeous, with lots of perfectly preserved historic façades and some interesting details like paintings and statues on the exterior of many buildings.

Architecture in Prague

We also joined the crowds gazing admiringly at the astronomical clock at the town hall. I’d read that it wasn’t currently in action due to maintenance works, but the second time we went past it, it was definitely doing something on the hour!

Astronomical clock

We also explored the Jewish Quarter, which had some stunning synagogues and other buildings to stare at.

We visited Prague Castle on the second day. The castle itself is just some a collection of rather unspectacular buildings that once served as sleeping quarters for various rulers and their entourages, but the brooding yet magnificent St Vitus Cathedral is an amazing feat of architecture that was worth the visit alone.

St Vitus Cathedral

We saw the changing of the guard at the castle gates, which is supposed to be a spectacular affair at noon. To me, it just looked like a load of uniformed men marching around with guns while some other uniformed men played trumpets, but the crowd seemed to enjoy it!

Changing of the guard at Prague Castle

We went to look at John Lennon Wall, which was originally covered with lots of graffiti relating to the Beatle, but has been slowly taken over by less relevant graffiti. It was slightly disappointing, to be honest!

John Lennon Wall

Near the funicular station for Petřín Hill lies a sobering memorial to the victims of Communist rule in Prague. The memorial comprises several sculptures made in the image of the sculptor himself, but in varying states of decay. A plaque nearby describes how many residents were killed, imprisoned and exiled from Prague as a result of Communism.

On our last full day in Prague, we visited the Czech Music Museum. We both thoroughly enjoyed it; we explored a temporary exhibition on the association between music and fairy tales in Czech history, and then went round the main exhibit, which had lots of historic instruments ranging from guitars and pianos to violins and plenty of things we’d never heard of! It’s a brilliant museum and I would definitely recommend it to anyone with a passing interest in musical instruments.

What we ate

My husband is vegetarian and I’m pescetarian, so we knew we probably wouldn’t be able to sample authentic Czech cuisine, as it’s pretty meat-heavy. We still ate really well, though, thanks to the wide range of restaurants and cafes serving up all sorts of cuisine in the city.

We had an Indian buffet lunch at Dhaba Beas (there are several of these around Prague), authentic pizza at Pizzeria Kmotra, pub food at BeerGeek in the Vinohrady district, and Afghan food at Kabul Restaurant.

Prague chimney cake bakery

The highlight, however, was getting to sample Czech chimney cake, which is a sweet dough wrapped around a cone, baked, and dipped in sugar and cinnamon. We had ours with ice cream, because it’s not a holiday until you’ve had an ice cream.

Me with a chimney cake
I loved that chimney cake SO MUCH

What we drank

Everything. We drank everything.

Beer at Prague Beer Museum

Prague is famous for its cheap pilsner, and we certainly appreciated the prices after being regularly stung by craft ale prices back in the UK. However, the beer is also just really, really GOOD. We simply didn’t have a bad beer at all in Prague, and we had a lot of beer!

Dark beer at Lokal

There’s also a huge range of Czech beer types beyond your standard pilsner. We tried dark beers, wheat beers, fruit beers, amber beers, ruby beers… you name it, they’ve got it in Prague. And, like I said, it’s all so good and cheap!

Our favourite pub was definitely Prague Beer Museum, which is centrally located by the river. It has 30 beers on tap, so you’re never short of something new to try.

Prague Beer Museum
Prague Beer Museum

We also drank at Fat Cat Brewery and Pub, Lokal, the aforementioned BeerGeek in Vinohrady (which also had an impressive beer list from around Europe), and a rather intimidating traditional beer hall, the Golden Tiger, which was filled with imposingly large men downing huge mugs of beer in seconds.

Other drinking destinations included CafĂ© V Lese, an atmospheric little bar where we saw a couple of bands downstairs. It’s off the beaten path, but is located on a street known for cool drinking hangouts and creative spaces.

Absinthe Time
Absinthe Time

We tried some absinthe at Absinthe Time and also at Hemingway Bar, which is a brilliant little cocktail bar with staff who know what they’re talking about when it comes to spirits. It has a HUGE rum list, which was the main attraction for me!

Hemingway Bar
Hemingway Bar

All in all, we had a brilliant time in Prague, and would recommend it to anyone interested in a city break with plenty of history, architecture and cheap beer!

National Theatre

Prague street sign

Vltava River